Choosing the Right Modem and Setting Up Reliable Wi-Fi and Ethernet Connections

You don’t need to buy the expensive modem/router, with all the latest features and greatest Wi-Fi signal strength.

Check with your Internet provider for what exact model modem works, there are many different (incompatible) standards. For Cox, see their official list: Cox Certified Cable Modems https://www.cox.com/residential/support/cox-certified-cable-modems.html but unofficially, any “DOCSIS 3.1” modem should work for cable Internet (if you have fiber Internet, get one from the official list).

Avoid DOCSIS 3.0 modems as the older standard won’t be compatible with Cox for as long; but they are much less expensive, if you don’t need the extra speed of DOCSIS 3.1.

“Only modems and gateways purchased or rented directly from Cox are supported by Cox Customer Support.” Yeah, and you won’t have the monthly amount added to your bill for their modem and support.

If you buy used or new, as long as it is the exact model listed (look closely, model numbers are long gibberish) and it functions, you can use it. 

Cox doesn’t (or at least didn’t) require registering your modem. You just connect it, and it should work. 

One excellent modem is Motorola Surfboard DOCIS 3.1, you will likely use it for years. Rock Solid and compatible with Cox. It is very simple to install, but expensive…

Wi-Fi Throughout Your House

You can buy the high-powered Wi-Fi router. But often if there are “things in the way” even 50 feet might be too far for a reliable Wi-Fi signal.

Instead, consider installing Ethernet cables to the far rooms of your house. You will get faster speeds than using Wi-Fi, especially as the distance from the router gets longer. (Wi-Fi signal strength decreases with distance, and as the signal gets weak, there will be more transmission errors; so your computer will have to re-try getting the data.)

While you are installing Ethernet cables, always install new coaxial cables too. Coaxial (cable TV) wires deteriorate over time (moisture corrodes the shield); in less than 20 to 30 years they won’t meet Cox standards for use in attached condominiums or apartments. The old cable TV wires will have more visible glitches on your TV programs.

You don’t have to cut holes in the walls to drill through each beam inside each wall, to install Ethernet; that costs far too much.

There is molding, like you already have for covering the gap where the wall meets the ceiling or floor, but with hidden places for several wires. Add a connector, or a wall plate with a connector, in each room.

Search for “baseboard cable molding” or “Ethernet cable hider” or “cable raceway”. Raceway is probably along the wall; baseboard is where the floor or ceiling connects to the wall. Lots of options, pick the price and look you want.

There is also “direct bury” outdoor Ethernet cable, simply scrape an inch deep in the dirt, lay the cable in it, cover it up. It is designed to last for years exposed to weather and moisture. Have a licensed contractor drill the hole to bring the wire into the building, since they know how to not drill into anything else that might be inside the wall.

It is easy enough for anyone “good with wires” to make an Ethernet connector, you can learn how. It certainly would cost less to hire someone to only make the connector for you, or to install the cable hiders, than to wire through your walls.

Install high-quality wires. You will get faster speeds, and the wires will work for longer (often several years longer). The cost of the wire is small compared to the work of installing the wire.

With Ethernet in each room, use any inexpensive Wi-Fi router in each room. Since the Wi-Fi signal doesn’t have to reach far, it will be very reliable. Almost all Wi-Fi routers also have Ethernet connections to attach several devices.

Wi-Fi 6 vs Older Wi-Fi

For your main room, for example where you will be streaming movies to your best television, Wi-Fi 6 makes a lot of sense. Wi-Fi 6 is also best when several people might be streaming at the same time.

For rooms where you do less demanding movie streaming, Zoom calls, browsing the Internet, inexpensive Wi-Fi routers will work just fine.

Note: for your computer, get a Wi-Fi 6 interface. It will connect to older routers, doesn’t cost much more, has the latest security standards.

Ethernet, if you use quality cables, will be faster and more reliable than any Wi-Fi. Desktop computers, televisions, security cameras, anything stationary, should be connected by Ethernet, if possible.

Routers and Ethernet Connections

Plan how many connections you need in each room, both Wi-Fi and Ethernet.

If the Wi-Fi router you pick doesn’t have enough Ethernet connections, you can buy very inexpensive Ethernet switches.

For example, TP-Link TL-SG108 8 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Network Switch is currently $18.99. Connect your modem to the input of this, and wires to each room using the 8 ports.

Power Surge Protection

Power surges can pose a significant threat not only to computers, but also to modems. Use a surge protector to safeguard your modem’s functioning properly and prevent any potential damage.

When connecting your modem, I recommend using the “surge protected” section of an “uninterruptible power supply” (UPS). A UPS, (more accurately a “supplemental” power supply), is a reliable safeguard against power surges. It ensures that your modem receives a steady and regulated power supply, shielding it from any sudden electrical spikes. Don’t connect your modem to the “battery + surge protected” outlets; those are primarily to provide backup power during outages, for shutting your computer down properly.

For computers and modems, look for a UPS that has noise filtration and line voltage regulation. They only cost a little more, and computers (especially with cheap power supplies) are sensitive to changes in voltage. AVR corrects for low voltage (brown-outs) or high voltage coming from your power lines.

CyberPower AVRG750U AVR UPS System, 750VA/450W, 12 Outlets,
CyberPower CP685AVRG AVR UPS System, 685VA/390W, 8 Outlets, Compact
both have automatic voltage regulation (but not noise filtration), both should work fine for all but the most high-power-use computers such as gaming machines with multiple graphics cards.